Tuesday 29 September 2020

IWC Portugieser's Tourbillon Complications Reach New Heights

The IWC Portugieser perpetual calendar tourbillon has a 45mm Portugieser case with curved lugs and a relatively large crown. The outer edge of the dial has a railway minute track, reminiscent of the marine chronograph that originally inspired the series, while Arabic numerals decorate most of the hour positions. Each of the four sectors of the dial has a different function. On the right side there is an analog date indicator and an impressive 7-day power reserve display. On the opposite side, we found the 9 o'clock analog day indicator, with the IWC brand logo in the center, and the year indicator slightly lower than the 8 o'clock. At the bottom is an analog month indicator and moon phase, while the top is dedicated to displaying the large aperture for the tourbillon of the same name. The hour and minute hands pass through the two leaf hands on the dial. This series of functions is powered by IWC clone watches Calibre 51950, which has a gold oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire back. The blue dial and silver dial of the watch are fixed to the wrist by Santoni's blue alligator strap.

Moving to the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph, we once again find recognizable Portugieser elements, although this new reference device stands out with its stepped bezel and rectangular chronograph buttons. The dial of this model also has many other familiar aspects of the Portuguese design family, such as its external railway minute track, retro-style Arabic numerals, and leaf-shaped hands for hour and minute hands. Towards the top of the dial is a small dial with 60-minute and 12-hour chronographs, while a simple pointer sweeps across the dial to track the chronograph. The new reference avoids the display of running seconds. The IWC logo occupies the three o'clock position, and on the contrary, this is a very rare retrograde date indicator, which may not be visible at first glance, as a power reserve indicator. At 6 o'clock is the hollow tourbillon with a precious metal ring.

The new tourbillon Rétrograde chronograph has a built-in IWC 89900 movement, which is made in-house by the brand. Just as the movement powers its perpetual calendar watch core equipped with a perpetual calendar, the automatic mechanism of this watch has a gold oscillating weight, although its power reserve is small, only 68 hours. The chronograph movement especially has a flyback function, which can gently "fly back" the second hand of the chronograph to zero after reset, so that the watch has a unique and luxurious beauty in terms of timing.

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